Camping in Paradise

Two days on Koh Phi Phi was more than enough time to be sick of that tourist trap from hell; home to the only place I’ve ever met rude Thai people. Molly, Allison and I absconded with our new friend Jon from the main island in search of something more peaceful. Since coming to Thailand, I knew I wanted to visit the mythical Maya Bay: an island oasis surrounded by lime stone cliffs hundreds of feet high. Separated from the main land of Phi Phi, the island looks nothing more than jagged limestone teeth stretching out from the clear water. Take a boat around the back side and it opens into this stunning bay. Critics all agree it’s the most beautiful beach in Thailand, if not the most crowded by daylight. We opted for a camping trip there to see the bay without the crowds of tourists we were escaping from.

These guys were not friendly!!!

We booked a package tour: four hours on a long tail boat that took us snorkeling and cliff jumping before dumping us off in the bay. The snorkeling was decent. Most of the reef had long been destroyed because it’s located in the bay the main pier is on. There were some fantastic fish in all colors and shapes and a few black-tip finned sharks, which was really cool. They didn’t seem to mind the farang stalking them from a meter above.

Cliff jumping was exciting and terrifying (big breath, Mommy.) 8 meters doesn’t look that far when you’re swimming underneath the cliff. But when you’re up there, looking down at water so clear you can see fish swimming 5 meters below the surface, you start to feel the plunge in your stomach that says “maybe 3 meters is high enough.” I had one false start that left me jittery. Then I jumped, yelling "oh shit" all the way down. I was told to wiggle my arms a bit first to ensure that I land straight before bring them down to my sides to enter like a pencil. Gravity was not having that. I wiggled around like a fish caught on a hook then before I hit the water decided to put my arms up over my head as I couldn’t force them to go down. It happened so fast and gravity pulled so hard that I’m not sure it’s an experience I really enjoyed but I did feel exhilarated when I hit the water.

Low tide

We arrived at Maya Bay just as most of the tourists and boats were starting to leave. As you wade through low tide to get from the boat to the beach it doesn’t take long for you to feel like you’ve won the lottery. The place is magic. 200 foot limestone cliffs shield this bay from the outside world. It’s as though you’ve slipped out of the realm of reality to enter an earthly paradise so perfect you have to see it to believe. That’s the best way I can describe it to you guys, it was paradise in every sense of the word. I really don’t believe I will ever find a place more beautiful than Maya Bay.

The staff at the campsite was comprised of beach bum Thai boys who had an endless supply of “goodies” and 90s pop songs to play on the guitar.

Around midnight the girls and I walked down the deserted beach for some skinny-dipping. Walking into the water we notice these vibrant green dots lighting up as we move the water around us, also known as bio luminescent plankton. It was absurd. You dive in and the entire ocean around you lights up, as though every pore in your body is shooting off fireworks into the water. My mind almost couldn’t comprehend what was going on. When you combine this stunning visual paradise with an element of un-earthly wonder you get one of the most wonderful and spellbinding experiences in my life thus far 

Phi Phi Don, home of Maya Bay

Entering the bay...